Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cerretta, 2013 no20230524 low-key Tuscan white from a

low-key Tuscan white from a producer far better known for Sangiovese

There’s no excess—just balance

Saperavi is a teinturier grape

blends Rabigato

Brisk-edged and energetic

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cerretta, 2013 no20230524 low-key Tuscan white from aCerretta is the newer single cru in the Giacomo Conterno lineup, from a parcel of Nebbiolo in Serralunga d'Alba that Roberto Conterno bought in 2008. This is the address that defined traditional Barolo, and Cerretta delivers the house signature: clay rich soils and that fierce Serralunga structure, with no shortcuts in the cellar. The 2013 is a classic, austere vintage built for the long haul, and it carries the tannic spine to match. Give it a long